How is a new climbing route created from the rock?
Using the example of:
Via Cresta-Nordest am Corno di Pedertich (2332 m)
Heinz Grill, Simon and Franz Heiss, Florian Kluckner, Barbara Holzer, Michael Müller
June 2024
Corno di Pedertich
It is always a joy for many climbers when a new route is established, especially if it has a difficulty level accessible to as many climbers as possible. At Corno di Pedertich, located in the Presanella group near Rif. Segantini, several new routes have already been created by Heinz Grill in recent years. In June 2024, a new route was added through his efforts and the collaboration of five other people, the “Via Cresta-Nordest”, climbing route.
The Corno di Pedertich is a beautiful rock formation in the Presanella area, which, especially on warm summer days, invites climbers with its high starting point at the Rif. Segantini parking lot and, in addition, offers a magnificent view of the Cima Presanella, the highest peak of the group. It is a remote area in granite rock.
Cima Presanella from Corno di Pedertich
How is a new climbing route created?
First of all, an idea and a clear, concrete plan are needed to find an ideal ascending line on the mountain. In this case, a route was to be created that is relatively easy, mostly at the 4th difficulty level with a few sections at the 5th grade, in order to offer a varied experience to as many climbers as possible. For this, it is necessary for the route designer to carefully examine the rock composition and structure, since the difficulty level should harmoniously characterize the entire route and follow a pleasing line without major deviations. Once the general line is clear, the practical implementation begins, such as clearing the route of loose stones, setting up anchors, bolts, threads, and so on. Naturally, a pleasant descent—in this case, a rappel route, already established for the other routes in the area—completes the climbing experience.
Line of the climbing route
Designing a route changes the mountain; it structures and organizes it in a way. But not only the mountain is transformed—the route designer also changes subtly, as they engage deeply with the mountain, its rock composition, and structure, and perceive the diverse structural elements such as cracks, ledges, slabs, and corners. After completing the work, they will have developed a sensitive relationship with both the mountain and the route.
Repeat ascent of the ‘Via Cresta Nordest’ on Corno di Pedertich
When climbers repeat a route, carefully observing the line, rock composition, and its structures beforehand and then rediscovering the individual passages of the route, they come closer to the spirit of the ‘ideator’ and gradually develop a sensitive relationship with both the route and its ‘creator.’ In doing so, they generate subtle life forces that nurture nature.